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July 28, 2021

Bozeman, Virginia City, & Nevada City, Montana

Visited July 24-28, 2021

By Janell


Bozeman is quite a vibrant place with lots to see and do and plenty of good restaurants too. Seriously, we found a few that I wish we could take home with us.
 
Montana State University is located in Bozeman, and that provides a youthful vibe. Overlay that vibe on buildings from the late 1800's, add an old west flare, and you have the city of Bozeman.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Main Street, Bozeman is loaded with a wide variety of shops: home decor, sporting goods, plenty of clothing for the 20 & 30-somethings, Montana-this and Montana-that gear, and even a funky vinyl shop where Marty spotted this t-shirt.


Near the t-shirt was a laminated page telling the history of The Green Coalition of Gay Loggers for Jesus. It's a pretty humorous story of a local citizen, who in 2009, created this outlandishly named organization solely to combat the Tea Party's plan to stage a protest march down Bozeman's Main Street on the Fourth of July. The Tea Party's protest, which was against taxes and government spending, was ironically going to cost the city taxpayers $1,100 in staff and police overtime.
 




 

This statue in Bozeman caught my eye, so I consulted Google to find out her identity. Please meet Jeannette Rankin (1880-1973). Rankin was elected to the US Congress from Montana in 1910, making her the first woman to hold a high government office in the United States. This statue was created by Jim Dolan. 


After reading about Jeannette Rankin I noticed the above statue and was equally intrigued. This is Malcolm C. Story (1902-1994). Jim Dolan created this one too, but how Malcolm deserves a statue, I cannot understand.  Malcolm was a grandson of Nelson C. Story, a Bozeman founding father. Other than that little tidbit, all I found on him was that in his later years, Malcolm is said to have been fond of wandering the streets of Bozeman in a bright red plaid coat. Wow. So if you've ever dreamed of having a statue of yourself in your home town it may well happen. Turns out it's not really that high of a bar! (At least not in Bozeman anyway)

 

 

July 26 was Marty's 64th birthday. The day started with me surprising him by playing "When I'm Sixty-Four", by the Beatles on the Beast's sound system.

Marty chose a hike for us to do on his day, and so we hiked the College M Trail. It was only 1.5 miles each way, but it was a bit of a climb with 850' of vertical gain. As you can see from the trailhead sign below, there was also a shorter route. The shorter route was only a half-mile to get to the same spot atop the hill. Well, it wasn't my birthday, but I was really glad Marty didn't want to do the shorter, steeper version.

Here's the view from atop the mountain. So much for "Big Sky Country", huh? We'll have to come back another year before fire season so that we can truly see the big sky.

"M" is for Marty. We hiked up to the "M".

 

And then we went for beers at MAP Brewing Company!

 

We also went to the Bozeman Hot Springs on Marty's birthday. These are natural hot springs, and people have been enjoying them since the late 1800's. They look a little different now, I'm sure.


We were staying at the Bozeman Hot Springs Campground, so it was an easy walk right next door to the hot springs. We had much confusion when trying to find out the cost of the hot springs, but we finally got the answer: they're free for the campground guests. Lucky us!

The hot springs these days are actually eight indoor pools and four outdoor pools. The temperatures in these pools vary from 57° to 106°. Someone from the staff comes around every hour to check the temp and log it. We noticed the white board below after we'd finished our soak, so we didn't know what to expect until we dipped our toes into each pool.

Near the glass wall you can see three of the pools. The far left pool was 106° when we were there, and the one right next to it was a frigid 59°. Quite a shocking difference! The pool in the foreground is the "main big pool" inside.

 Here you can see the indoor pools from the opposite end, where there are four more pools to explore.

 

Outside were three long crescent-shaped pools and one smaller, old-fashioned rectangular pool. We were told that the lighting outside after dark is really pretty. However, at this time of year it doesn't get dark in Montana until after 10, and we didn't feel like going back there at that time of night. They also have live music outside on Thursday and Sunday evenings. You can see the stage in this picture. Unfortunately we didn't make it for that either. Maybe next time.

 

 

 

Virginia City and Nevada City: sister cities of the old west. (Just an hour’s drive from our RV park in Bozeman)

Virginia City and Nevada City were both born with a spectacular discovery of gold in Alder Gulch in 1863. Thousands rushed to the area in search of gold, and by the fall of 1864 the Virginia City area boasted an estimated 10,000 residents. Many small settlements sprang up in a 14-mile stretch around the area, and it became known as "Fourteen-mile City"; with Virginia City and Nevada City as the main centers of commerce.

Virginia City housed Montana’s first public school, newspaper, and telegraph, and it served as the Montana Territorial Capital for 10 years ... until the gold ran out. In the early 1870’s Virginia City’s population had been reduced to only a few hundred, and in 1875 the territorial capitol was moved to Helena (Montana's state capital today).

Virginia City was known as a particularly lawless and violent town in its early days. Road agents became notorious for robbing and murdering travelers in the area, resulting in up to 100 deaths in the period from 1863 to 1864. The situation spawned the formation of the famous Montana Vigilantes. The vigilantes hung many “offenders” without due process. Apparently violence was the answer to ... violence. Incredibly, this lawless vigilante history is still a point of pride with some Montanans today.

If you want to read more about it: https://www.hcn.org/issues/51.11/history-montanas-vigilante-obsession-obscures-the-truth

Today’s Virginia City is described as a “lively ghost town”, but with a population of 216, I’d hardly call it a ghost town. It’s more a touristy “old west” town where some people still live. Many of the city's structures were built before the turn of the 20th century, and some date back to its heyday in the 1860's. There are several actual shops where one can buy food or souvenirs and several re-created shops on display solely for visitors’ curiosity.

Nevada City, on the other hand, has a population of zero. Although there are a few operating businesses, no one actually resides there. The entire town of Nevada City is called a “living historical museum”. Numerous buildings have been dismantled from other Montana areas and reconstructed in Nevada City. Nevada City has 108 authentic gold rush era buildings, fourteen of which are original to Nevada City.

The two cities are just 1.5 miles apart. You could drive from one to the other, but they also offer a train ride and museum entrance combo ticket, so we purchased that.


VIRGINIA CITY:

In Virginia City you can pay to ride around in a stage coach. That's not so unusual, right? But this particular stage coach has a dog who trots all over the top of the coach the entire time it's moving. He's keeping an eye out for robbers, I assume. When the guests depart and the coach is stationary, the dog takes a break and lies down in the driver's seat until the next customers board.

 
  
Looks as though this was the place to go if you needed any undergarments ... back in the day


 

I'm not sure what to make of this display. The case itself has engraved letters: "J. P. Priwley's California Fruit and Pepsin Chewing Gum".  I guess they ran out of gum, and doll faces were the next best thing? Kind of creepy!


 I can't help but wonder what they used to sell here! Whatever was in vogue in California at the time?
 
 
 Do you ever feel as if you're being watched?
I was sitting on a bench outside the theater, and this man was right behind me peering out from inside the window. Seemed harmless enough.


 Our train arrived, and it was no bigger than the little train you'd put your kids on at the Folsom Zoo! You're kidding me?!
 
 
 
 All aboard! 




NEVADA CITY:


 Shave and a haircut, two bits?

See the mugs on the shelves above the sinks? Did you know that it was typical of barbershops of the era for regular customers to have their own shaving mugs with their name and occupation on them?


They didn't need to tell me twice to keep my distance!




Our last Bozeman area outing, (other than another trip to the hot springs) was a relaxing float down the Madison River. Madison River Tubing rents tubes and even ice chests (which sit in their own tube). They strap your tubes together and off you go! About two hours down the river you get out, and they shuttle one of your party 20 minutes back to the put-in point to get your car.

 
 
 
 
 
 
"Happy Trails to you, until we meet again."




July 23, 2021

Billings, Montana

Visited July 19 - 23, 2021

By Marty


Unbeknownst to us when we made the reservation the Billings KOA is the very first KOA, established in 1962! There are over 500 KOA's in the US and Canada.  We stay at KOA's quite often.

Should it be of interest to you, here is the KOA story: The KOA Campground founding story


They have set a high bar at this campground. Even the tents have air conditioning! (well, this one did.)


Sure, it needs some work, but it has potential!

A couple of gray bunnies hopping around downtown Billings.  Not your usual bunny coloring.

Along the northern edge of Billings run the Rimrocks, geological rimrock sandstone formations. There are hiking trails along the top from which you get a nice view (even with the smoke).



About an hour southeast of Billings is Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.

From the NPS pamphlet:

"Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument memorializes one of the last armed efforts of the Northern Plains Indians to preserve their ancestral way of life. Here in the valley of the Little Bighorn River on two hot June days in 1876, more than 260 soldiers and attached personnel of the U.S. Army met defeat and death at the hands of several thousand Lakota and Cheyenne warriors. Among the dead were Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer and every member of his immediate command. Although the Indians won the battle, they subsequently lost the war against the military's efforts to end their independent, nomadic way of life."

For more on the Battle of the Little Bighorn:

Context and Story of the Battle of the Little Bighorn

It's nice to see park rangers giving talks and visitor centers open again in the National Park Service system!



The remains of about 220 soldiers, scouts, and civilians are buried around the base of the 7th Cavalry Memorial on the top of Last Stand Hill.

The white marble headstones scattered over the battlefield denote where the slain troopers were found and originally buried. In 1881 they were reinterred in a single grave on this site.
The officers' remains were removed in 1877 to various cemeteries throughout the country. Custer was buried at West Point.


The black background tombstone in the center of the photo is that of Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer.


In the 1990's an Indian Memorial was authorized by Congress to honor the Native Americans who struggled to preserve and defend their homeland and traditional way of life.




An hour southwest of Billings is the Beartooth Highway. The Beartooth Highway is designated a National Scenic Byways All-American Road. Charles Kuralt (for you old timers) described this byway as "the most beautiful drive in America." The highway runs 67 miles from Red Lodge, MT to the northeast entrance to Yellowstone NP in Wyoming.


The road is a popular ride for bikers. While in Cody, WY we noticed many, many touring bikers. There are several scenic highways within a short drive of Cody (Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway, Chief Joseph Scenic Byway and Beartooth Highway)

We drove about 60 miles of the highway and then drove it in reverse (that is to say, in the opposite direction - we did NOT back up the whole way). The photo above, as smoky as it is, was taken at 11:08 a.m.

This photo, taken from almost the same spot as the photo above it, was taken four hours later at 3:04 p.m. Smoky skies have been our constant companion since July 7th.




This photo from the web shows you the incredible views from the Beartooth Highway sans smoke. Janell and I agreed to come back someday, before the fire season starts, to really enjoy these amazing views! 



You may have seen these CruiseAmerica rental RV's with the cute dog looking out the window.

Apparently that cute pup has been dognapped (or is he just on vacation?) We spotted him at a construction delay on the Beartooth Highway.  He doesn't seem upset about the situation.

Some pretty serious roadwork underway. The Beartooth Highway doesn't open until Memorial Day weekend and usually closes in mid October, depending on snowfall. This only gives them 4+ months to complete roadwork projects.


This big beam is being readied to...

...be placed across this gulch.

This Front Loader is being driven by...

...this young lady

Did you know that Wyoming (half of the Beartooth Highway is in Wyoming) is known as the Equality State? This excerpt from travelwyoming.com explains why:

Though lovingly referred to as the “Cowboy State,” Wyoming’s true nickname is the “Equality State.” And for good reason. On December 10, 1869, Wyoming, a US territory at the time, passed the first unconditional law in the U.S. permanently guaranteeing women their inherent right to vote and hold office.

On September 6, 1870, in Laramie, Wyoming, Louisa Swain made history by becoming the first woman in the world to cast an electoral ballot under laws giving women full civil and political equality with men. These same laws were never changed even as Wyoming was admitted to the Union in 1890.

And those weren’t the only female firsts that took place in Wyoming. The first female governor was elected in Wyoming and the nation’s first woman to be appointed to public office was done so in South Pass City, Wyoming. In addition, the Equality State is home to the first female jurors, the world’s first female bailiff and the first town that was governed entirely by women.

When invited to join the Union only if women’s suffrage was revoked, Wyoming’s legislature said, “We will remain out of the Union one hundred years rather than come in without the women.” In 1890, Wyoming became the 44th state.


The Bear family returning from a drive on the Beartooth Highway


Winner of the best sign graphic award in the Fly & Tackle shop category!