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April 15, 2022

Birmingham, Alabama and Shiloh National Military Park, Tennessee

Visited April 9 - 10, and April 15, 2022

By Marty

This is a bonus post for a couple of side trips taken during our extended stay in Red Bay, Alabama.  This should tide you over until our next post:  Nashville!

As Janell told you in our Memphis post we were in Red Bay for an extended period of time (three weeks in total) to get some repairs done at the Tiffin repair facility and other work done by RV repair vendors in the area.  

We took the opportunity to do the Tiffin factory tour and it was pretty darn remarkable to see, up close and personal, how they put these things together. Check out the video below if you are interested to see it. This factory churns out 13 motorhomes per day when at max production.  At the time of our tour they were completing 10 per day because supply chain issues were holding them back. They actually have a six month backlog in delivering purchased motorhomes.

At the start of the tour we had a chance to meet Bob Tiffin.  Bob started the company 50 years ago, and what a friendly man he is! Bob, and his company, are as customer centric as you will find.


We are thinking about trading the Beast in for....

Just kidding! Parked outside the Tiffin visitor center is this 1976 Allegro. Bob Tiffin started the company in 1972.  This is a not so golden oldie! 

 

We took an overnight trip to Birmingham, AL, about 2 hours southeast of Red Bay. This view is from Vulcan Park just north of downtown Birmingham.


Atop Vulcan Park sits a statue of Vulcan, the Roman god of fire and forge. Why Vulcan?  Keep reading! The statue, at 56' tall, is the largest statue ever cast in the US and the largest cast iron statue in the world.

Vulcan was commissioned by Birmingham leaders to represent their new growing city at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair. After the fair he was brought home to Birmingham.



Birmingham, founded in 1871, was built on the iron & steel industry. The name was chosen in deference to the industrial heritage of Birmingham, England.

Seams of iron ore stretched for 25 miles through Red Mountain (on which sits Vulcan Park.) Also nearby were abundant deposits of coal, limestone, dolomite, and clay. With these raw materials at hand the iron industry flourished. By 1890 there were 28 iron furnaces in Birmingham.

Above is the Sloss Furnaces National Historic Landmark. The Sloss iron works was founded in 1881 and shut down in 1971. The complex was saved from the wrecking ball in the late 1970's and turned into a fascinating industrial museum and public event space.

If you have an interest in Birmingham's iron heritage, and eight minutes to spare, check out this video:

 


 








Birmingham played a pivotal role in the American civil rights movement. On September 15, 1963 a bomb exploded under the steps of an exterior stairway of the 16th St. Baptist Church. On the other side of the wall four young girls, ages 11 - 14, were killed.



 The Wales Window in the balcony of the 16th St. Baptist Church

 From magiccityreligion.org (edited):

This stained glass window was created by John Petts of Wales, UK, with funds donated by Welsh children and ordinary citizens. When he heard of the tragedy, he was horrified as both a “father and a craftsman in a meticulous craft”. As such, he quickly offered his services to create a brand-new window and install it in the church to commemorate the girls. While the window was inspired by the damage to the church, it did not replace a damaged window. Those were restored. Instead it was installed as a third image of Jesus in the sanctuary.

Petts decided to depict the Christ figure in a manner that mirrored “a black protester taking part in a street demonstration in the South” as Pastor Christopher Hamlin explains:

“The man’s arms were flung above his head, and his body was gyrating as he was assaulted with fire hoses. The Jesus in the window Petts designed symbolized the crucified Christ and forms the upright beam of a cross, while a stylized stream of water from a fire hose forms the cross beam. He used a rainbow-colored nimbus on the Christ figure in the window to symbolize that God loves every person equally without respect to nationality, race or creed–for we are one in Christ Jesus”.

On our tour of the church the meaning of the position of Jesus’s hands was explained as follows: “the right one is pushing away hatred and injustice, the left offering forgiveness".



We took a three hour "The Fight for Rights Tour" with Mike of Red Clay Tours driving and walking us around key locations in the Birmingham civil rights movement.



We started in Kelly Ingram Park, kitty-corner to the 16th Street Baptist Chuck. This park (at the time known as West Park) was the assembly point in May, 1963 for marches to the Birmingham business district a few blocks away. The four sculptures below are in the park, evoking imagery of the Birmingham protest movement and the brutal tactics utilized to confront it.
 
The text below the following three photos comes from the NPS Birmingham Civil Rights National Monument website.



When police filled the jails with mass arrests and depleted the ranks of adult demonstrators, the protest organizers, SCLC, called on the city's children to join the protests. 
 
 
 
 
On May 2, 1963, under orders from Public Safety Commissioner Bull Connor, police arrested 600 child picketers (some as young as six years of age); by the next day, 1,000 children had been jailed. In the days that followed, firemen blasted the protestors, including children, with high-pressure fire hoses, and police used their nightsticks indiscriminately.



Police K-9 units loosed their dogs into crowds of peaceful demonstrators, pinning down one woman and severely wounding three teenagers. One young bystander was whirled around by a policeman into the jaws of his German Shepherd. An Associated Press photographer standing nearby captured the incident, which quickly became the symbol of the unrest in Birmingham.
 
 
 
 
For more detail on the Birmingham protests, the tactics of law enforcement, and the eventual resolution read this from the National Park Service:
 
 

Our tour stopped at the Bethel Baptist Church where Reverend Fred Shuttlesworth was Pastor. Shuttlesworth was the local leader of the civil rights movement. On three separate occasions his church or home (located adjacent to the church at the time) were bombed.

There were over 40 racially motivated bombings in Birmingham between the late 40's and mid 60's, earning the city its notorious nickname:  "Bombingham".

Our tour took us up Center Street, into the neighborhood known as "Dynamite Hill" where efforts were made to integrate the neighborhood, with multiple home bombings being the result. 


On Friday, April 15th I dropped Janell at the Memphis airport to fly to Austin for a few days with five of my sisters for a celebration of sister Mary's looming 60th birthday. On my drive back to Red Bay I took an hour detour to visit the Shiloh National Military Park, all the while thinking that Janell will be sooo disappointed that she didn't get to visit the battlefield park with me...  (can you say sarcasm?)


The Battle of Shiloh occurred on April 6 - 7, 1862, just a year after the Civil War began. On that day a Union army of 40,000 led by Generally Ulysses S. Grant battled a confederate army of 44,000 led by General Albert Sidney Johnston.  Johnston was killed in the battle.  There were almost 24,000 casualties in this battle (dead, wounded, missing), more than the total casualties of all previous wars in which our country had fought to that point.

 

A battlefield diorama in the visitor center







Day one of the battle ended with Grant's army pushed back nearly to the banks of the Tennessee River. On day two, with newly arrived reinforcements, Grant counter attacked, regaining all ground lost to the Confederate army the previous day.  The Confederate army then retreated to Corinth, MS, 22 miles to the southeast. 


The location of the battlefield headquarters for the various commanding officers are marked by these cannon ball pyramid monuments.





The Shiloh National Cemetery was created in 1866 to inter the remains of those killed in the battle of Shiloh and from all of the war operations along the Tennessee River. The cemetery holds 3,584 Civil War dead, with 2,359 of those unknown. In the Fall of 1866 workers disinterred the dead from 156 locations on the Shiloh battlefield, and 565 different locations along the Tennessee River. In case you were wondering the National cemeteries did not inter any Confederate soldiers.


Tall headstones mark the known dead; short stones denote the unknown soldiers.


The Gettysburg Address was delivered by President Abraham Lincoln at the dedication of the National Cemetery in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania on November 19, 1863.

Lincoln's speech of 271 words followed the two hour, 13,607 word long oration of the featured speaker that day, Edward Everett. Everett was the former dean of Harvard University and one of the most famous orators of his day.  

Everett wrote Lincoln after the ceremony to say, "I wish that I could flatter myself that I had come as near to the central idea of the occasion in two hours as you did in two minutes."











April 05, 2022

Memphis, Tennessee

Visited Apr. 2-5, 2022

By Janell


We arrived in Red Bay, Alabama on March 29, and signed up to have several things (mostly minor) repaired on the Beast at the Tiffin Service Center. (Unfortunately, one cannot just call ahead to make an appointment; scheduling is only done in person.) Once we were on the list at Tiffin, we knew we'd have a bit of a wait to get into a service bay
 . . .  so, we left the Beast in Red Bay and drove a couple hours to Memphis, Tennessee for three nights. 

We had planned to take the Beast to Memphis after Red Bay, but now there's no need.




There are quite a few songs about Memphis, but I think that Marc Cohn's "Walking in Memphis" might be my favorite.


We stayed in downtown Memphis: close enough to walk to Beale Street, but not so close that we heard the noise from it. Beale Street is very much a party scene, and there's a lot of neon. It's a good place to get some tasty BBQ, enjoy a drink or two and listen to some live music. We did just that!



At Ghost River Brewing Company on Beale, we found a couple of stools on the second floor which allowed for a great view of the stage and a bit of a city view also. We listened to Pam and Terry play a lot of songs that we all know and love (notice I did not say "oldies"). They were really fun to see!

Sometimes they would walk around while playing. Here's Terry upstairs on the deck with us. 

Pam was very good with a harmonica! Here's a clip where Pam plays Lynyrd Skynyrd's "Free Bird".
Wish I didn't have to cut it so short (Blogger limits, you know).
Free Bird is normally a 9 or 10-minute song! (You're welcome! 😁)






Perhaps you've heard of The Peabody Hotel? Opened in 1869, it's an elegant, grand old hotel and an icon of downtown Memphis. If you have heard of it, most likely you've heard of The Peabody Ducks. The Peabody is world-famous for its five resident ducks (we saw four of them), who march daily through the lobby at 11am (from the elevator to the fountain) and 5pm (from the fountain to the elevator). If this is the first you've heard of this, you may think I'm talking about something other than real, live ducks. But no, I am definitely talking about REAL, LIVE DUCKS! 

From The Peabody's website:

How did the tradition of the ducks in The Peabody fountain begin? Back in the 1930's Frank Shutt, General Manager of The Peabody, and a friend, Chip Barwick, returned from a weekend hunting trip to Arkansas. The men had a little too much Tennessee sippin' whiskey, and thought it would be funny to place some of their live duck decoys (it was legal then for hunters to use live decoys) in the beautiful Peabody fountain. Three small English call ducks were selected as "guinea pigs", and the reaction was nothing short of enthusiastic. Thus began a Peabody tradition which was to become internationally famous.

In 1940, Bellman Edward Pembroke, a former circus animal trainer, offered to help with delivering the ducks to the fountain each day and taught them the now-famous Peabody Duck March. Mr. Pembroke became Peabody Duckmaster, serving in that capacity for 50 years until his retirement in 1991.

Nearly 90 years after the inaugural march, the ducks still visit the lobby fountain from 11am to 5pm each day.

The Assistant Duckmaster prepares the steps and red carpet for the Duck March.

Watch the ducks march!




This was a cute and yummy breakfast spot!



Continuing on with our "Civil Rights tour", if you will, we visited The National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel. The Lorraine Motel is where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated on April 4, 1968. We just happened to visit on April 3; we were so glad, once we realized that the next day was the 54th anniversary, that we had not gone one day later. They were setting up event tents while we were there, and I'm sure the next day was crazy busy.


As it was The National Civil Rights Museum, it covered much more than the assassination of MLK Jr. All things Civil Rights related were covered, but here are just a few.

The scene above depicts the Montgomery Bus Boycott of December 1955. When Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat on the bus for a White man, it touched off a year-long boycott of the bus system by African Americans. Instead of riding the bus, African Americans walked and carpooled wherever they needed to go. After 13 months, the mass protest ended with the U.S. Supreme Court ruling that segregation on buses is unconstitutional. This was regarded as the first large-scale U.S. demonstration against segregation.

This bus, located in the museum, is evidence of the shocking story of what happened to the Freedom Riders in Alabama on May 14, 1961. The Freedom Rides of 1961 was a movement seeking to test a 1960 decision by the Supreme Court that segregation of interstate transportation facilities, including bus terminals, was unconstitutional. African American and White riders traveled to the Jim Crow South, where segregation had continued, despite the ruling.

The original group of 13 Freedom Riders -- seven African Americans and six Whites -- left Washington, D.C., on this Greyhound bus on May 4, 1961 bound for New Orleans, Louisiana.

On May 14, the Greyhound arrived in Anniston, Alabama. They were met by an angry mob of about 200 White people who surrounded the bus, causing the driver to continue past the bus station. The mob followed the bus in cars. When the bus' tires, which had been slashed, blew out, someone threw a firebomb into the bus. The Freedom Riders escaped the bus as it burst into flames, only to be brutally beaten by members of the angry mob.

The above scene depicts the Memphis sanitation workers strike of 1968. They were striking in protest against economic disparity and safety in the workplace, among other issues. The strike began in February 1968 and lasted just over two months. 

Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. went to Memphis in support of the sanitation workers, giving a speech there on April 3. The very next day he was fatally shot while standing on a balcony at the Lorraine Motel.




Opened by Sam Phillips in 1950, Sun Studio is the self-proclaimed "Birthplace of Rock 'n Roll". Legends such as B.B. King, Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, and Jerry Lee Lewis were "discovered" here.

Sun Studio offers tours during the day but is still an active recording studio in the evenings. For $200/hour you can cut a record! We didn't do that, but we did take the 45-minute tour, and it was very interesting. The studio looks the same as it did in the 50's (or so we were told).

 
Legend has it that in 1953, an 18-year old Elvis Presley, (who was employed as a truck driver), walked into Sun Studios to make a delivery. Intrigued with the idea of music recording, he returned a few days later to record a song as a birthday gift for his mother. (The recording cost $3.98 + tax.) Sam Phillips' assistant, Marion Keisker, recorded Presley's song, as Phillips wasn't in at the time. Keisker thought Presley had potential, and she made a duplicate of Presley's recording to share with Phillips. Phillips was not impressed, but Keisker saw something in Presley and continued to pester Phillips about Presley's potential for some time. Phillips eventually did call Presley, and the rest is history! 

Here's our tour guide, Mark, talking about the "Million Dollar Quartet" (pictured in the poster on the wall) which was an impromptu jam session with Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, Elvis Presley, and Johnny Cash on Dec. 4, 1956. The four had never played together before that day.

For more about the Million Dollar Quartet, you can check out the link below.




. . . and just for fun!



Here I am in Arkansas, but Marty is in Tennessee!

We walked from Memphis, TN, over the Mississippi River, half way across the Big River Crossing Bridge; and that put us in Arkansas. The state line is midway across the Big River Crossing, which is a railroad bridge and a pedestrian/biking bridge. You can see Memphis behind us.



Probably the most popular thing to do in Memphis is visit Graceland. The mansion itself is not ostentatious, but the interior decor is wild! Elvis redecorated often, changing upholstery, carpet, paint, drapery, etc. 

Elvis' custom-made living room sofa is 15' long; only 2/3 of it is visible in this photo.

Elvis' bedroom was upstairs, and apparently he didn't come downstairs until he was fully dressed, coifed, and "ready to be seen". His parents lived here also. Their bedroom is on the first floor, so the entire upstairs was Elvis' domain. Because very few in Elvis' circle ever went upstairs, his family decided that the public tours should not go upstairs either. 

The dining room was used by family for all holidays and special dinners.

Notice the three television sets in Elvis' TV room. He'd heard that President Lyndon Johnson watched three sets at once to keep up with the news on each of the three major networks. Apparently Elvis was trying to keep up with the Johnsons. More than likely, at least one of Elvis' sets was showing football.

Decorating the pool room was not an easy task. It took a crew of three about ten days to cut, piece, pleat and hang about 400 yards of cotton fabric to the walls and ceiling. A little overwhelming, don't you think?

Elvis called this room "the den", but when the home was opened to the public, it became known as "the jungle room". With a waterfall, Polynesian-style furniture and green shag carpeting on the floor and ceiling, you can see how it earned its current name.

Across the street from the mansion, are the multiple museums that house all of Elvis' gold records, outfits, cars, jets, and more.






The above photo is of an exterior wall at Wiseacre Brewing Company. This was probably the most colorful brewery we've ever seen. They spent quite a bundle on their decor!

The round windows above, some concave and some convex, look into the brewery operations. Very unique!