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October 11, 2022

The Amana Colonies and Amana, Iowa

Visited Oct. 6 - 11, 2022

By Janell



This is Amana RV park, in Amana, Iowa. They boast of having over 450 campsites on 80 acres of gorgeous Iowa land. You can just see the cornfields (the band of gold), beyond those RVs, at the outer edge of the park. It was a nice park, with very spacious sites. There weren't many campers while we were there, so it was very quiet. Apparently one week earlier, it was a different story: there was an Oktoberfest in Amana, and we heard that 65,000 people were in town that weekend! I'm sure the RV park was filled to capacity. At first when we heard we'd missed the Oktoberfest, we were disappointed; but then we heard how crowded it was and decided we were lucky to have missed it. 

On our drive out of the RV park one day, Marty spotted these two bald eagles! 



Amana is one of seven villages on 26,000 acres, that make up the Amana Colonies. The seven are: Amana, East Amana, High Amana, Middle Amana, South Amana, West Amana, and Homestead. 

The colonies were built and settled by German Radical Pietists who were escaping persecution in Germany. When they came to the United States in the 1840's, they first settled near Buffalo, New York. Then in 1855, seeking further isolation, they chose the Iowa countryside, near present-day Iowa City.

For eighty years, the colonists maintained an almost completely self-sufficient community. 

From Amanacolonies.com:

In the seven villages, residents received a home, medical care, meals, all household necessities, and schooling for their children. Property and resources were shared. Men and women were assigned jobs by their village council of brethren. No one received a wage. No one needed one. 

Over 50 communal kitchens provided three daily meals; as well as a mid-morning and mid-afternoon snack to all Colonists. These kitchens were operated by the women of the Colony and well supplied by the village smokehouse, bakery, ice house and dairy, and by the huge gardens, orchards and vineyards maintained by the villagers.

Children attended school, six days a week, year-round until the age of 14. Boys were assigned jobs on the farm or in the craft shops, while girls were assigned to a communal kitchen or garden. A few boys were sent to college for training as teachers, doctors, and dentists.

In 1932, amidst America's Great Depression, Amana set aside its communal way of life. A ruinous farm market and changes in the rural economy contributed, but what finally propelled the change was a strong desire on the part of residents to maintain their community. By 1932, the communal way of life was seen as a barrier to achieving individual goals, so rather than leave or watch their children leave, they changed. They established the Amana Society, Inc. a profit-sharing corporation to manage the farmland, the mills, and the larger enterprises. Private enterprise was encouraged. The Amana Church was maintained. 

The above write-up doesn't specifically state this, but we learned that the colonists did not have kitchens in their homes; there was no need since all meals were prepared and eaten in the communal kitchens. (Sounds pretty organized, but what about midnight snacks?!)

Just in case you were wondering . . . yes, the Amana Colonies have a connection to the Amana Corporation (makers of refrigerators and other household appliances). It was founded in 1934 by George Foerstner as The Electrical Equipment Co. in Middle Amana to manufacture commercial walk-in coolers. The business was later owned by the Amana Society and became known as Amana Refrigeration, Inc. It's now owned by the Whirlpool Corporation.


Our RV park was just 1 1/2 miles from Amana, and we went into town two or three times.  

Scenes from Amana: 






Amidst all the fall decor in Amana, we truly weren't sure if the overalls and tractor were simply decoration or . . . ?

The following day our question was answered: the overalls were gone from the clothesline, and we saw the tractor drive down the road and pull into the yard, returning from the work day.




One evening we drove into Iowa City to see Ward Davis play at the Wildwood Smokehouse & Saloon. We first found Ward Davis in July 2021 in Helena Montana at the Lewis & Clark Brewing Company, and we really enjoyed listening to the band. 

Then and now we noticed the drummer's hair, which was always flying about. We wondered whether the fan blowing on him was to keep him cool, or because it made his hair look cool. My guess is the latter. 




Have you heard of Eldon, Iowa?

Eldon is where the American Gothic House & Center is located. In 1930, an Iowan artist by the name of Grant Wood took a tour of the small town of Eldon and spotted a little white house with a large Gothic window. Inspired, Wood quickly sketched the house and returned home to Cedar Rapids to paint American Gothic. When asked why the house caught his eye, Wood said he found the window amusing, and called it "pretentious" for such a small house. 

The models Grant Wood used for his now famous painting were his sister, Nan Wood Graham, and his dentist, Dr. B.H. McKeeby. 

Three interesting notes about the models and the folks they portrayed:

1. Wood's sister and dentist posed separately for the painting, and neither of them were in front of the house when they posed. Wood painted the house from his sketch and added the figures in afterward. 

2. Many might assume the couple in the painting are husband and wife, but Wood called them father and daughter. 

3. The dentist did not want to pose for Wood but reluctantly agreed after Wood assured him he would not be recognizable. Wood elongated his sister's face, but he didn't change enough about the dentist; the dentist was instantly recognized by those who knew him, and he was not happy about it.

American Gothic

Outside the American Gothic Center

The house that inspired Grant Wood's painting

The house is open for touring, but there's not much inside. For whatever reason, the management has chosen not to furnish it. Also, tourists are not allowed upstairs, as the staircase is an old and skinny, spiral one. But in the American Gothic Center, adjacent to the house, we enjoyed learning all about the house and the people involved with its history.

It was also fun to see other renditions of the American Gothic couple inside the center.

Any resemblance to actual persons is purely coincidental.




Our travels took us through a another small town called Riverside. What might Riverside be known for, you ask? 

Of course you know about Captain James T. Kirk, of the starship USS Enterprise?

Perhaps you even knew Captain Kirk was from a "small town in the state of Iowa"?

In March 1985, an enterprising Riverside Councilmember and Star Trek fan, Steve Miller made a motion during a council meeting: What if they changed the theme for the city's annual River Festival, to "Trekfest" -- and they also claimed to be the birthplace of Captain Kirk?

Miller said, "Well, no small town in Iowa has ever claimed to be the birthplace, so we figured it was first-come, first-served." The council voted 4-0 that Monday night to designate Riverside as Kirk's future birthplace. 

Miller reported later about the council meeting: "Although they were taken by surprise, the resolution passed unanimously." Miller then told a friend who was a reporter in Cedar Rapids, and word spread from there. Miller said, "It was picked up by the wire services and The New York Times and was even broadcast over the BBC in England. The mayor had to take a week's vacation from his regular job to be at city hall to answer all the calls about it. At that point, we knew we had made the right decision."



And that's all there was to Riverside!




Although we missed out on the big Oktoberfest in Amana, we did get to attend a small-scale one in Iowa City.

There was beer, and there were contests about beer. Just how long could you hold a liter of beer out at arm's length?

There were costumes!

I don't know if these two won any prizes, but they should have! What sports!!




We went to a Renaissance Festival in Middle Amana:




Many attendees were in full "Ren Fest" attire. These two looked to be doing some serious shopping.



We sat and listened to Pictus for a bit. They were pretty entertaining.





Back in Amana: Millstream Brau Haus, with a flag left over from the previous weekend.

And hops! 









October 05, 2022

Des Moine, Iowa

Visited September 30 - October 5, 2022

By Marty

Welcome to Iowa - the 48th state!   

Your grammar school history book and the internet would tell you that Arizona was the 48th state, and that would be true, but in a very different context!  

Iowa is the 48th sticker to be affixed to our USA map as you will see illustrated below. We are not quite done exploring though: After Iowa, Nebraska awaits. In June, 2020 we were in Nebraska just long enough to slap a sticker on the map but we knew that, in the immortal and paraphrased words of General Douglas MacArthur "we shall return!"

Enough about Nebraska though, let's talk about Des Moines, Iowa!


We "took it to 'the House' " one last time on our drive from Kansas City to Des Moines. Sadly (but also for the best) there are no Waffle Houses in our last two states, or in California for that matter.  Maybe some day? 


We stayed at the very pleasant Griff's RV Park in Altoona just 20 minutes from downtown Des Moines.


Needless to say the Hawaii and Alaska stickers won't be going on the Beast. Of course we could drive the Beast to Alaska but, at 6,000 long, hard round trip miles, it's not worth the wear and tear on the Beast.

It's official!

Polk County Historic Courthouse in downtown Des Moines

The Des Moines Saturday Downtown Farmers' Market is rated one of the best in the U.S. The market spans nine city blocks and features "275 local small business owners, including farmers, producers, bakers, and artists that represent 50 counties across the state of Iowa."  There was quite the crowd there bright and early on Saturday and there were lots of interesting vendors.


Nearby was the West End Architectural Salvage, a "salvage, restoration, custom furniture, coffee shop, and event center all in one."

The coffee shop features the usual hot drinks along with alcoholic drinks so that you can "grab a drink and wander around our four floor historic building where you can get lost in time discovering old relics, new refurbished furniture, and the old fixtures you forgot even existed."


Pappajohn Sculpture Park in downtown Des Moines features over two dozen works.

The park opened in 2009 with 24 sculptures, valued at $40M, gifted by John and Mary Pappajohn. Pappajohn is a Des Moines based venture capitalist: he's not the pizza guy!


 


The beautiful Iowa State Capitol is the only five domed capitol in the U.S. The two domes on the far side of the building are obscured by scaffolding. We didn't have time to go inside, but I'm sure it's just as beautiful on the inside!


 The Soldiers and Sailors Monument sits immediately west of the Capitol


Cheers indeed! We visited an Oktoberfest in Water Works Park and The Big Grove Brewery downtown

The Bridges of Madison County

 Roseman Covered Bridge

If you are familiar with the book or the movie "The Bridges of Madison County" the Roseman Bridge is where Francesca (Meryl Streep) left the note for Robert (Clint Eastwood).  Directed by Clint Eastwood the movie is actually not bad for a chick flick...

Madison County, 40 minutes south of Des Moines, is the Covered Bridge Capitol of Iowa. It is estimated that there were over one hundred covered bridges in Iowa in the 1870's. Madison County was home to 19 covered bridges at one time but just six remain today. Five of the six are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 

We visited all six of the bridges. They are very similar (all painted red) so I'm only showing you photos of two of them.

Why cover the bridges? Because it makes for a good book and movie plot device? Perhaps...

The more plausible explanation: "The bridges were covered by order of the County Board of Supervisors to help preserve the large flooring timbers, which were more expensive to replace than the lumber used to cover the sides and roof. Usually, the bridges were named for the resident who lived closest."

Imes Covered Bridge

Winterset is the county seat of Madison County

Madison County Courthouse

 

Winterset is very charming and nostalgic with the courthouse in the center square and four blocks like this one facing it. There are some nice shops and dining options.










If quilts are your thing...


There were some amazing pieces on display in Winterset


Now that's my kind of quilt!


Clark Tower

Clark Tower was erected in 1926, on the 80th anniversary of the founding of Madison County, in memory of Caleb and Ruth Clark. Clark, a stonemason, was the first white settler of Madison County.


Cute couple! Any resemblance to the authors of this blog is purely coincidence...

We learned that John Wayne was born in Winterset.  We didn't have time for the museum though. Sorry Duke!

John Wayne's birthplace, adjacent to the museum

We enjoyed chocolate malts at the Winterset Frostee before heading to the last bridge. Delish!

Right behind Griff's RV park runs the Chichaqua Valley Trail a 25 mile 'rails to trails' multi-use trail. We took a 22 mile spin on the Chichaqua. Lengthy sections were paved with concrete, not something we often see. It was one of the better trails we've pedaled.

For long sections the trail ran aside Iowa cornfields


Dead cornfields? 

Not exactly "Field of Dreams" cornfields, right? Actually, the corn hasn't even been harvested yet!

Look closely at the center of this photo. I have peeled back the husk on two ears of corn. This is 'field corn' which only grows one ear of corn per stalk.  Field corn is used to feed livestock, in ethanol production, and manufactured goods like plastics, along with food products (corn syrup, corn starch, etc.) Field corn typically has only one ear per stalk and the stalks, as you can see, are planted close together.

We were puzzled by the late harvest. Here we are in mid October and most of the Iowa cornfields are unharvested. I learned that "corn planted for animal feed will first need to 'dry down' by remaining in the field until it reaches approximately 15% moisture." The corn harvest continues into November or even early December in some states.

I was anxious to see the corn harvest in real time. We never got to see the combine in action but we did see this on our way to Winterset.

In the short video below of the scene above you can distinctly see the corn kernels as they are pumped into the transport truck and the chaff blowing toward my open car window.

Thanks to the magic of YouTube you can see a Corn Combine Harvester in action. Just watch the first four minutes to get the idea. What a machine! Good old American ingenuity!

 

Now that I've whetted your appetite, so to speak, for all things corn here are some fun and interesting corn facts:

  • There is one silk for every kernel that grows in an ear of corn.
  • The number of kernels per ear can vary from 500 to 1,200, but a typical ear would have 800 kernels in 16 rows.
  • One acre of corn is about the size of a football field.
  • 1% of corn grown in the US is sweet corn (what you eat with your hot dog on the 4th of July.) The rest is field corn.
  • 40% of U.S. field corn is used to make biofuels, 36% is fed to cattle, pigs, and chickens.
  • Iowa is the #1 U.S. corn producing state with 12.5 million acres planted each year (that's 12.5 million football fields!) Iowa produces 18% of all U.S. corn. 
  • 90% of Iowa's land is devoted to agriculture.
  • 57% of Iowa corn is used in biofuel and 42% to feed livestock.
  • U.S. farmers plant 90 million acres of corn per year.
  • U.S. corn production has increased by 400% since 1950, from 2 billion to 10 billion bushels. A bushel of corn is 56 pounds, about the weight of a large bag of dog food.
  • The U.S. produces and exports, by far, the most corn in the world. 38% of the world's total corn exports come from the U.S. In 2020/21 the U.S. exported 69.8 million metric tons to 73 different countries.


Enough with the corn already!

Well how about Meta (Facebook)?  The photo above shows a VERY small portion of the Facebook (Meta) data center in Altoona. I only knew it was Facebook because I saw a large complex of buildings on Google Maps when I was looking at directions to our RV park.

Facebook in Altoona will be Meta's largest data center in the world by 2025 when the current expansion, the seventh and final expansion at this site, is complete. The entire site will be 5 million sq. ft. The Altoona site was Meta's fourth global data center, breaking ground in 2013. Meta now has 21 data centers world wide.

You can see Griff's RV park in the upper portion of this screen shot. The large campus to left of "JT Logistics" is the current Facebook data center. The area under construction above it (where it says MidAmerican Energy) is the Facebook expansion under way.

Meta's data centers use 100% renewable energy.  In addition to endless fields of corn we also noticed more wind power turbines in Iowa than any other state. I was impressed to learn that wind power makes up 57% of electricity generated in Iowa, more than any other state.