Dolores, Durango, & Cortez, Colorado + Mesa Verde National Park

Visited May 10 - 15, 2021

By Marty

 

After 27 days in Utah we moved on to Colorado as we zig and zag through the mountain states in a northerly direction, ultimately to and beyond the Canadian border (if the Canucks will let us in that is...)

Our first Colorado destination is Dolores, CO. I spent a night in Dolores on my 2019 bike trip and vowed (well, vowed is a strong word, so let's say hoped) that I might return on our motor home adventure. So we did!

Just a few miles south of Moab on our way to Dolores is this desecrated rock formation. Hole 'N the Rock is a roadside attraction: a 5,000 sq. ft. home carved into the rock formation along with a gift shop and more. We had zero interest in the attraction. I certainly hope that plastering your business name on the side of a mountain would not be permitted today.

Hole N' The Rock website

We stayed at the Dolores River Campground and Cabins. Many of the RV parks where we stay have tent sites and cabins for rent as well. The cabins typically have no plumbing so the guests use the RV park common facilities.  These covered wagons set the bar for the most unique overnight accommodations we have seen.  You get a glimpse of the Dolores River beyond the wagon.

Mesa Verde National Park is an hour or so south of Dolores. The area was occupied by Ancestral Pueblo people from 500 AD -1200 AD. The Ancestral Pueblo people farmed the mesa above the cliffs (corn was the primary crop) and built elaborate stone communities in the sheltered alcoves of the canyon walls.

 The photo above is of Spruce Tree House, the best preserved cliff dwelling.

Square Tower House

Zooming in on Square Tower house

We were only able to view the pueblos from a distance, either from roadside overlooks or, in one case, from a trail. There are three of the cliff dwellings that you can actually "hike" down to for ranger led small group tours. Alas, the tours were quite limited, in part due to COVID, and were not available when we visited.

This sculpture is outside of the visitor center. I didn't fully understand the significance of it until we saw the pueblos later. The Pueblan is using hand and foot holds carved into the cliff to travel between dwellings and to/from the mesa above.

In the center of the photo you can see the foot/hand holds used to travel between levels. It's fair to assume that sleep walkers had a short life span in this culture... 

It was quite interesting to learn that the Ancestral Pueblo people occupied this land for 700 years but it was only in the last 100 years, starting around 1200 AD, that they constructed and occupied the cliff dwellings. For the 600 years prior to that they lived atop the mesa (mesa verde is Spanish for green table) in dwellings partially dug into the earth and constructed with wood, mud, vegetation and stone.

In the late 1200's the Ancestral Pueblo people moved south after only after a few generations as cliff dwellers. The reasons for the decision to move are not fully understood. Their descendants live in New Mexico and Arizona today.

This establishment wins the "curbside appeal" award in my book. If I didn't already drink liquor I'd probably take it up just to reward the proprietor for his/her good taste and civic spirit!

We visited Durango, CO (about an hour from Dolores) for an afternoon and evening. The historic district is charming and has a distinctly western feel to it.

The outdoorsy Colorado lifestyle is apparent wherever you go in the state.

We were informed by this mural that Jack Dempsey is from Manassa (aka "Manassa Mauler") which is 170 miles east of Durango. In 1915, at the corner of 10th & Main in Durango, Dempsey knocked down Andy Malloy in a ten round fight, winning $50. Dempsey went on to become the world heavyweight champion in 1919.

An old Texaco filling station in historic Durango has been repurposed to 11th Street Station, a lively venue for food, drink and music.

They did a nice job carrying the filling station theme throughout.

On Saturday we loaded the bikes onto the back of the CRV and drove 35 miles higher into the mountains to Rico where we had lunch. Rico is not very large and there are more empty buildings than there are occupied ones, but it is picturesque nonetheless.

We stumbled onto this very cool mural in Rico. The characters are all musicians: Jerry Garcia, Tom Petty, Jimmy Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Gregg Allman, George Harrison, Mick Jagger and more....)

And, of course, Elvis and Glen Campbell  (and the Marlboro Man?)

I was curious about the Elvis and Glen connection so I found this video:

video: Glen Campbell talks about his first meeting with Elvis Presley

After lunch in Rico we drove 14 miles to Lizard Head pass, at 10,222', where we saw, but did not hike, the Galloping Goose trail. This trail runs 19 miles to the east, ending in Telluride. 

We had a different adventure ahead of us this day....

Back in Rico...

About those bikes...

On my bike trip the ride from Dolores to Rico was one of the best and most scenic of the entire 3,800 mile ride, even though it was uphill!  

If you want to know more about that day's ride from two years ago:

Dolores to Rico bike journal page

 

I had the brilliant, or so it seemed at the time, idea to share this experience with Janell by taking the bikes to Rico and pedaling together downhill to Dolores! (Rico elevation is 8,825' while Dolores is 6,936'.) It promised to be an easy, "breezy" 35 mile downhill coast...

To accomplish this "one way" bike ride we would leave Lil' Red on the curb in Rico and come back the next day with The Beast to pick her up on our way to our next destination in Montrose, CO. Brilliant, right?

And we're off!

Things did not go exactly as planned for two reasons: 1) The starting elevation of 8,825' made exertion more challenging (there were a few ups to go along with mostly downs); and 2) There was a pretty strong wind funneling up the Dolores River valley all afternoon. With this wind the "coasting" opportunities were few.

At the end of the ride I was accused by my worn out wife of false advertising. It was not intentional I assure you, but guilty as charged....

The Dolores River runs alongside the road 90% of the time. Rafting season is underway!

Janell spotted this cool "barn quilt" on a rest break

As I said, a really beautiful ride!

The two photos below are from Lizard Head Pass on our drive out on Sunday. We picked up Lil' Red in Rico and continued over the pass en route to Montrose, CO.

The Aspens are leafing out at the lower elevations as you travel up toward Lizard Head, but they have yet to do so at the upper elevations.

 

About those Colorado mountains...

 

Colorado has 58 mountain peaks exceeding 14,000', known as 14ers.  California has 12. If you really want to get high Colorado is the place to be!

This is a 360' video of Lizard Head Pass taken from atop The Beast.  Let the record reflect your Honor that The Beast was stationary at the time!